NOTES SHANGHAI 2026 RECAP:
A GLIMPSE INTO ASIA’S RISING PERFUME SCENE
All About the Perfume
At the heart of Notes Shanghai stood ten special exhibitions exploring perfume history, raw materials, creative processes, and artistic interpretation. One of the highlights was The Perfumers’ Pavilion, a signature exhibition dedicated to the invisible artists behind fragrance creation. Through installations and storytelling, visitors discovered the creative universes of perfumers and fragrance professionals including Raphaela Jian from Sozio, Olivier Cresp from DSM-Firmenich, Fung Sheung Ho from CPL Aromas, Gwen Gao from IFF, and Saruj Tangtaratorn from Carbonnel and C De La Niche.
Another standout exhibition was presented by Laurent Assoulen with Sentire®, The Art of Smelody. Developed alongside IFF master perfumers Anne Flipo, Carlos Benaïm, and Napoleo Bastos, the concept merged scent and sound into one immersive experience. Through five fragrance compositions paired with QR-activated concerts, visitors could literally hear perfume unfold. What began as an artistic experiment has since evolved into the luxury niche brand Maison Sentire.
Lastly, the visually striking installation by Sandy Z left an impression on us as well. This fragrance-to-visual-translator is renowned for transforming scents into miniature sculptures that are brought to life through scent. The creations blurred the line between fragrance and sculpture.
‘Masters’ Series
While also featured inside The Perfumers’ Pavilion, master perfumer Dominique Ropion received a dedicated exhibition as part of the new Masters series. Titled Aphorisms of a Perfumer, the exhibition explored the creative world behind one of perfumery’s most celebrated names. Known for creations including Alien by Mugler and Portrait of a Lady by Frederic Malle, Dominique Ropion has long captured fragrance lovers through his bold style and iconic white floral compositions.
Through showcased fragrances, visual language, inspiration boards, and associated words, visitors gained a rare glimpse into his creative process and artistic philosophy. The perfumer himself was also present for meet and greets, conversations, and book signings throughout the fair. For many visitors, including us, it became one of those unforgettable pinch me moments.
The History of Perfume
Another side of fragrance creation came alive through Notes Shanghai’s collaboration with the Osmothèque, the world’s largest perfume archive. The exhibition guided visitors through the evolution of fragrance families and historical perfume structures, showcasing a selection of legendary creations throughout perfume history. Marked through colour coded fragrance families, guests could not only explore the classifications visually, but also smell the fragrances themselves. It felt less like a traditional exhibition and more like stepping directly into a living perfume archive.
Behind the Fragrance
Notes Shanghai also gave centre stage to major fragrance houses including DSM-Firmenich, Givaudan, IFF, and CPL Aromas, offering visitors a closer look into the science, artistry, and raw materials behind modern perfumery.
DSM-Firmenich presented its Dose of Pleasure collection inside a vibrant yellow booth filled with tropical fruits, draped like art pieces. One standout fragrance, Hamiwood, blended Chinese hami melon with oud to recreate childhood memories through scent. As perfumer Steve Guo explained, hami melon represents a deeply nostalgic taste of childhood for many Chinese consumers.
Meanwhile, IFF transported visitors into the world of the Song Dynasty through four immersive olfactory chapters called Poetry, Painting, Porcelain, and Tea. Combined with the IFF signature LMR Naturals, a range of pure natural ingredients, including living gunsmoke, wintersweet, osmanthus fruity concentrate pulpxtract, raspberry concentrate pulpxtract, and lime heart, the installation became one of the fair’s most memorable sensory experiences.
For the true fragrance enthusiasts who couldn’t get enough of the exhibitions, Notes Shanghai hosted an extensive programme of forums and salon sessions exploring global market trends, ingredient innovation, perfumery techniques, cultural narratives, and brand storytelling. Together, the talks attracted over 20,000 viewers, reflecting the growing global demand for educational and insight driven fragrance content.
In addition to the talks, the fair also presents curated exhibitions designed to immerse visitors in the world of scent. Previous editions have featured installations exploring the historical origins of perfumery, natural raw materials, and contemporary olfactory creativity. Interactive scent boxes placed throughout the venue invite visitors to test fragrances while sharing their impressions through specially designed questionnaires.
A Hub for Niche Perfume
At its core, Notes Shanghai has proven itself to be far more than a trade show. It is becoming a multidimensional platform connecting creation, culture, commerce, education, and community.
And perhaps that is exactly what makes the fair feel so exciting right now. It is not simply reflecting where perfumery stands today, but quietly hinting at where fragrance may be heading next.
With over 50% first time entrants to the Chinese market and around 40% Chinese exhibitors, the fair also reflected the rapid growth and evolution of China’s niche fragrance scene. But with so many discoveries waiting around every corner, where should you begin? Let us introduce three rising stars that particularly stayed with our team after Notes Shanghai.
Three Rising Stars Discovered at Notes Shanghai
Notes for Later
This niche brand, founded in Shanghai in 2024, blends Eastern and cultural heritage with a modern lens. The fragrances are built around treasured botanicals and celebrate women shaping their own path, bold and in full bloom. The flacons are just as striking, with hand-polished glass, a magnetic cap, and a soft spray that looks and sounds just right.
To discover Notes For Later this summer, start with Magnolia Shadow. Centered around magnolia, Shanghai’s signature flower, it has a beautifully airy and radiant character. Paired with balsamic lemon, soft jasmine, creamy ylang-ylang, and warm sandalwood, it feels sunlit, like a summer memory in scent.
Zhufu
Zhufu is a niche fine fragrance brand, founded in 2023, known for craftsmanship and elegance. Capturing the essence of ‘blessing’ in Asian culture, the brand embodies good fortune, prosperity, and strength through its distinctive scents. Inspired by bamboo, each fragrance blends traditional artistry with contemporary sensibility, creating a perfect balance between oriental depth and modern design.
One of Zhufu’s signature creations, Donglin Temple, draws inspiration from the Donglin Temple in Shanghai, where fragrance symbolises offering and devotion. Combining fir, camphor, and pine needles, it radiates the calm of temple grounds and the refreshing essence of a summer breeze.
To Define
Founded in 2020, To Define turns fragrance into wearable poetry. Each scent reflects on themes like connection, identity, and self-awareness, forming part of a wider story shaped by Chinese and international perfumers. The flacons mirror this vision, with a minimal and modern look.
This sunny season, try Palpitate. Inspired by Bali’s oceans, it captures the feeling of moving closer to someone, both physically and emotionally. Crisp bergamot, grapefruit, and mint open the scent with a gentle marine wave running through. Later, green woody notes emerge, hugged by cosy amber and musk. It feels fresh but warm, ebbing and flowing like a gentle tide across the skin.
