Roses, Raw Materials & Master Perfumers
The exhibitions at Notes Shanghai offered a change of pace between all the perfume testing. Rewriting Rose explored more than 200 years of rose in perfumery, with over 70 exhibits ranging from historic fragrances to contemporary interpretations. It was an opportunity to revisit a familiar ingredient and see just how differently perfumers have worked with it over the years.
Another highlight was The Perfumer of Light, dedicated to Master Perfumer Alberto Morillas. Through six chapters, visitors could explore more than 55 years of his work, including some of his best-known creations and the memories behind them. Meanwhile, the first edition of Notes Materials brought over 100 fragrance ingredients together in one place, offering a closer look at what goes into making a perfume.
Between the brand presentations, exhibitions, and conversations with creators, four days went by quickly. And while we returned with plenty of new names on our radar, we were also curious to hear what had stood out to someone discovering Notes Shanghai for the first time.
Notes Shanghai Through the Eyes of Professor Perfume
When Emelia entered our giveaway, she certainly didn’t expect to find herself on a plane to Shanghai. Travelling from the United States, she joined Le Parfum Magazine for four days at Notes Shanghai.
Her discoveries ranged from Chinese fragrance brands she’d never encountered before to ingredients with a special place in local culture. And, as it turns out, one of her favourite scent memories had nothing to do with the exhibition floor. We caught up with Professor Perfume to hear all about her trip.
Q&A with Professor Perfume
You travelled from the US to China as the winner of our Notes Shanghai giveaway. What surprised you most about the fragrance scene once you arrived?
I had no expectations, honestly! I hadn’t tried many Chinese fragrance brands before attending Notes Shanghai, so I wasn’t sure what I was walking into. I was pleasantly surprised by the amount of citrus! Nearly every Chinese line I tried had a gorgeous citrus offering, notably Eclat de Bergamote from Narratus and Hibiscus from Mat Kuro.
When you entered our giveaway, did you ever imagine you would actually end up in Shanghai? What has the experience meant to you?
I didn’t expect to win at all, but I’m so grateful to have had the opportunity to attend with Le Parfum Magazine! Shanghai is the farthest I’ve ever been from home, and as someone who has always loved to travel, it was a dream come true to experience a new place. It was pure magic!
You described some of the booths as almost like art exhibitions themselves. What felt different about the way fragrances were presented?
I noticed a much greater emphasis on the visual presentation of fragrances compared with other conventions I’ve attended. My wonderful translator, Cindy, explained that in China, the bottle and packaging are very important to the experience of a scent. People take pride in displaying beautiful things in their homes, and they see fragrance as an extension of that. As someone who loves a custom bottle and cap combination, it was fun to see so much of it!
After four days of discovery, which Asian fragrance brands stood out to you?
Scent Tells, for its incredible storytelling and fragrances that feel like bottled memories. Mat Kuro, where the bottles make you stop, but the scents make you stay. Nook Hill surprised me with its cucumber fragrance Tuffet and almond scent Lovey. Mo Maek showed me what the future of fruity fragrances could look like, while the South Korean brand Pesade impressed me with its craftsmanship and artistic detail.
Did you notice anything distinctive about the way Chinese brands approach fragrance?
Overall, I found Chinese perfumery to take a much lighter approach than what we see in Western fragrance trends. While the US and Europe are all about powerful scents and incredible longevity, the Chinese perfumes I experienced were much less intense and overpowering. Even the gourmands, ambers, and deep patchoulis somehow felt airy and light, which I really appreciated!
Were there any fragrance ingredients that particularly surprised you?
I smelled a lot of fragrances featuring chenpi, which I had never encountered before. It’s aged, sun-dried mandarin peel, traditionally used in Chinese cooking and medicine. In fragrance, it brings a slightly bitter citrus character while retaining the sweet juiciness of mandarin. It’s so interesting!
I also discovered several scents featuring red bean or bean paste, another completely unexpected note for me. Both were often described as nostalgic scents in Chinese culture. Knowing that these are familiar aromas of home cooking, pastries, and childhood memories helped me understand and appreciate the culture so much more.
Beyond the brand booths, which exhibition left the biggest impression on you?
Rewriting Rose was probably my favourite! Exploring iconic rose fragrances from the past alongside modern interpretations gave me a renewed appreciation for the art and science of perfumery.
When you’re a fragrance fanatic, you eventually reach a point where you think, “Oh, another rose fragrance. Meh.” But this exhibition challenged that idea. Even after decades of perfumery and countless rose fragrances, there are still so many ways to reinvent a scent.
What’s one small detail from Notes Shanghai that you’ll never forget?
The incredibly warm welcome from the Notes Shanghai team! From day one, they made sure we were comfortable and took a real interest in helping us discover what we wanted to experience. My translator, Cindy, was a highlight of the trip. It was wonderful getting to know her and making a new friend amid all the perfume.
Beyond the event itself, was there a smell in Shanghai that has stayed with you?
Osmanthus! When I visited Yu Garden, I stopped beneath an osmanthus tree with my guide, who was explaining its history. Suddenly, a strong gust of wind blew hundreds of tiny flowers all over us. I kept finding little yellow osmanthus flowers in my hair and clothes for the rest of the day. It was such a beautiful scent memory.
Finally, if you could bottle your four days at Notes Shanghai into a fragrance, what would it smell like?
Jet lag, coffee, osmanthus, and joy!
Until Next Time, Shanghai
After four days of perfume testing, conversations, and discoveries, Notes Shanghai AW 2026 has given us plenty of stories to bring home. From the brands we encountered to the people we met, it was a pleasure to experience this edition together with Professor Perfume.
A big thank you to the Notes Shanghai team for having us, and to Emelia for joining us on this adventure and sharing her favourite moments.
Want to Visit Notes Shanghai?
Notes Shanghai SS 2027 takes place from 24 to 27 March.
Visit notesshanghai.com for the programme and visitor information.
