For decades, big designer fashion houses like Chanel, Dior, and Guerlain have empowered the perfume market with iconic fragrances such as Chanel No. 5 and Dior Sauvage. Now the tide seems to be turning as niche perfumes are rapidly gaining popularity. But what exactly is the difference between these two types of perfumes? Jim Leweck, lover and collector of perfumes and owner of Introspection haute parfumerie in Luxembourg, shares his take on the differences.

Column by Jim Leweck founder of Introspection niche perfumery

In my niche perfumery, I often get questions about what I think of designer perfumes and how they are different from the niche perfumes that I have in my perfumery’s collection. Niche perfumes are usually made by smaller companies whose core business is creating perfumes. Their ingredients are in a higher price bracket and the fragrances are more exclusive – so less widely available – than designer perfumes, which makes them more expensive. Having the freedom to select a price range and choose more valuable ingredients is indicative of the passion involved in the creation of the fragrances. There’s a love there of storytelling, and an artistic view that extends far beyond the simple process of making money. In fact, a lot of niche brands claim their main aim is not to get rich but to share their stories through their perfumes.

“I ALWAYS COMPARE NICHE PERFUME WITH A LUXURY BAG”

– Jim Leweck, founder of Introspection niche perfumery

The freedom in the selection of ingredients and to determine a budget also results in a higher concentration of perfume oil, which enhances the longevity and intensity of the scent, which means you can apply less and still smell delicious for longer. Designer perfumes, on the other hand, are usually created by bigger companies with roots in fashion and are designed to appeal to a much wider audience – they need to be liked by as many consumers as possible. You should keep in mind that when a big fashion house brings out a new designer perfume, that it is produced in not just hundreds, but millions of bottles. Designer perfumes are less expensive due to this economy of scale. They also have a lower perfume oil concentration in order to maximise profitability. In general this results in less longevity, in other words the perfume does not last as long because it evaporates faster.

This raises the question whether niche perfumes are in fact more expensive than designer perfumes, or whether that’s just a matter of perception. I always compare niche perfume with a luxury bag: if you buy a Louis Vuitton bag, you pay for the exclusivity and the exquisite materials.