NOTES SHANGHAI:
ALEX WU ON
CHINA’S GROWING INFLUENCE
IN PERFUMERY
Before founding Notes Shanghai, what did your career journey look like, and what ultimately led you to realise China was ready for its first niche fragrance fair?
Before founding Notes Shanghai, I had already been working in the fragrance industry for many years. My company has long provided product development and manufacturing services for fragrance brands in China and around the world, which has given me the opportunity to work closely with brands, perfumers, and every part of the fragrance value chain.
What ultimately led me to create Notes Shanghai was seeing a new generation of outstanding independent Chinese fragrance brands emerge. Many of them were investing tremendous effort into their products and creative vision, yet there was no platform where they could truly be seen, discussed, and discovered. High-quality exchange between brands and consumers, brands and the media, and between Chinese brands and the international fragrance community was still very limited.
I believe some industries grow not only through competition, but through exchange. Our goal with Notes Shanghai was to bring together perfumers, brands, buyers, retailers, media, fragrance professionals, and passionate enthusiasts in one place. We wanted outstanding creations to gain meaningful visibility, while giving brands the opportunity to receive direct feedback from both the market and their peers.
When a brand discovers a different creative approach, when a perfumer hears perspectives from another market, when an international buyer encounters Chinese brands for the first time, or when fragrance lovers exchange ideas with one another, those seemingly small interactions gradually become the driving force behind an industry’s development. For us, Notes Shanghai is not only about creating business opportunities, but about building an ecosystem where ideas, knowledge, and creativity can move freely.
You’ve witnessed China’s fragrance industry evolve from the very beginning. What has it been like to watch that transformation unfold from the inside?
The biggest change is that China’s fragrance industry is gradually moving from manufacturing to creation. In the past, China’s greatest strength was its highly developed manufacturing capability and integrated supply chain. Today, however, we are seeing more and more Chinese brands develop their own creative identity and distinctive voice, with the confidence to tell their own stories.
At the same time, Chinese consumers have become much more sophisticated. They are no longer driven simply by international luxury brands or the latest market trends. Instead, they are increasingly interested in the perfumer behind a fragrance, a brand’s philosophy, its creative process, and the cultural ideas it represents. They are also more willing to support creations that genuinely resonate with them.
This shift in consumer mindset has encouraged brands to invest more deeply in originality and creativity. Today, China’s fragrance industry is no longer defined only by its manufacturing capabilities, but increasingly by its ability to create brands with distinctive identities and lasting cultural influence.
“I believe some industries grow not only
through competition, but through exchange”
How would you describe the relationship between China’s niche fragrance market and the rest of the world today? Where do you see the greatest differences, and where are the two becoming increasingly aligned?
The relationship between China’s fragrance market and the rest of the world has entered a new phase of two-way exchange, where different fragrance cultures are influencing one another more than ever before.
The biggest difference, in my view, lies in the stage of development. Europe has a mature fragrance ecosystem and a long-established heritage, while China remains a relatively young but highly dynamic market. Because the two markets are at different stages of development, they each bring different strengths and perspectives to the industry.
At the same time, they are becoming increasingly aligned. Whether in China or internationally, brands are placing greater emphasis on long-term brand building, original creative expression, and building genuine relationships with consumers.
Sharing China’s
Creative Voice
Looking back, what moment made you realise Notes Shanghai was genuinely changing the fragrance industry?
What makes me most proud is seeing so many outstanding brands become better known through Notes Shanghai over the years. On one hand, we have introduced many exceptional international fragrance brands to China, giving Chinese consumers and industry professionals the opportunity to experience different fragrance cultures from around the world. On the other hand, we have helped many promising Chinese brands gain visibility among consumers, the market, and the international fragrance community.
Many independent brands have excellent products and strong creative ideas, but because they are still relatively small, they often lack opportunities for meaningful exposure and industry connections. That was one of the original reasons for founding Notes Shanghai: to create a platform where more deserving brands could be discovered.
Over the years, we’ve seen many brands use Notes Shanghai as a starting point to build their market presence and develop long-term partnerships. Ultimately, a brand’s success depends on the quality of its products and its long-term commitment. We are simply pleased to have been part of that journey.
Beyond China, I also believe Notes Shanghai has a broader role to play. Over the past few years, we have been exploring how a fragrance fair can create value beyond brand showcases and business opportunities, through content, cultural exchange, and international dialogue.
Today, it is encouraging to see more regions around the world establishing their own fragrance fairs and experimenting with new approaches to curation, content, and industry exchange. I see this as a positive sign of a fragrance industry that is becoming increasingly open, diverse, and globally connected, and I’m glad that Notes Shanghai has had the opportunity to be part of that evolution.
China has a rich cultural heritage of tea, incense, traditional medicine, and botanicals. Do you think these influences will become more visible in contemporary fine fragrance?
I believe this shift is already happening. Over the past few years, we have seen more and more Chinese fragrance brands move beyond simply incorporating recognisable Chinese ingredients or cultural references. Instead, they are drawing genuine creative inspiration from Chinese culture itself. Tea, incense, and traditional botanicals are all part of that heritage, but what truly matters is not simply using those elements in a fragrance. It is about translating the ways of living, aesthetic values, and cultural understanding behind them into contemporary olfactory expression.
At Notes Shanghai, we have also seen that what increasingly interests the international fragrance community is not simply the ingredients that come from China, but the fresh creative perspectives and new forms of expression that Chinese creators are bringing to the global fragrance landscape.
“The international fragrance community
is becoming increasingly interested not simply
in ingredients from China, but in the fresh creative perspectives Chinese creators are bringing to global perfumery”
Notes Shanghai brings together fragrance cultures from all over the world. What is one misconception Western brands still have about Chinese fragrance lovers?
I think it’s less a matter of misunderstanding than a lack of opportunities to truly understand one another. The Chinese market is evolving very quickly, and it is difficult to understand today’s consumers through data, social media, or industry reports alone.
We have seen more and more international brands come to Notes Shanghai not only to showcase their products, but also to engage directly with Chinese consumers, local brands, and industry professionals. Many questions can only be answered by being there in person.
One of Notes Shanghai’s most important roles is to help reduce the information gap between China and the international fragrance community. We want to make it easier for Chinese brands to be understood internationally, while also giving international brands a more authentic and nuanced understanding of the Chinese market.
Designed to Be Experienced
Notes Shanghai was one of the first fragrance fairs to introduce large-scale interactive scent exhibitions. Was creating an immersive visitor experience always part of your vision, or did that idea evolve as the fair grew?
It wasn’t part of a fully formed plan from the beginning. With each edition of Notes Shanghai, we’ve continued to introduce new ideas and new formats. But one thing has remained constant: we’ve always wanted Notes Shanghai to be more than a place for business. We want it to be a platform that also promotes fragrance culture and encourages meaningful industry exchange.
Fragrance is something that needs to be experienced, but it also needs to be understood. If an exhibition simply presents products, visitors can only take away so much. That’s why we’ve introduced historical fragrance exhibitions, perfumer retrospectives, ingredient-focused exhibitions, forums, and publications such as Nez in China. Together, these initiatives provide a broader context, helping visitors understand not only how a fragrance smells, but also the creative thinking, materials, history, and culture behind it.
While these initiatives are not directly related to commercial transactions, they make communication between brands and audiences much more meaningful. The more visitors understand, the more effectively brands can express their ideas. When people have the right context, concepts that once required lengthy explanations, whether about creative direction, ingredient innovation, or cultural references, become much easier to appreciate.
Notes Shanghai never feels like rows of exhibition booths. It feels curated. How do you balance business with creativity when designing the visitor experience?
I think it comes back to how we define Notes Shanghai. From the very beginning, we’ve regarded content as being just as important as commerce. That’s why the fair often feels more like a curated experience than a traditional trade show.
For a fragrance fair, curation isn’t something separate from business. It’s a way of helping brands express themselves more clearly, while helping visitors better understand the work behind each fragrance.
When people have a deeper understanding of a brand’s creative vision, ingredients and cultural context, the conversations between brands and audiences become much more meaningful, and commercial relationships become stronger as well. So rather than trying to balance creativity and commerce, we see thoughtful curation and meaningful content as a way of bringing the two together.
Shaping the Future of Perfumery
For many years, Europe has been considered the heart of fine fragrance. Do you see China becoming not only a major consumer market but also a global force for fragrance creativity and innovation? Why or why not?
Yes, but I don’t think that means China is here to replace Europe. Europe has an extraordinary fragrance heritage, a highly developed industry, and world-class expertise. Those foundations remain incredibly important. China’s opportunity is not to replicate that system, but to contribute new creative perspectives and different ways of thinking about fragrance.
China’s fragrance industry is still relatively young. That brings certain challenges, but it is also one of its greatest strengths. Without being constrained by long-established conventions, many Chinese creators draw inspiration from architecture, cities, materials, food, memory, and contemporary life, rather than relying solely on traditional fragrance narratives.
Is there a fragrance trend, creative movement, or olfactive direction you believe is currently underestimated, but is about to have its moment?
Trends have a way of pulling everyone in the same direction. Social media amplifies certain scent profiles, distribution channels naturally favour safer products, and brands are easily influenced by whatever is popular at the moment. As a result, the conversation often becomes about what will sell, rather than what is worth creating.
Some fragrances that are rooted in genuine lived experience may earn strong recognition within a smaller audience, but they won’t necessarily become mainstream trends overnight. Yet these are often the works with the greatest longevity. They have the potential to introduce new ways of experiencing fragrance and, over time, even shape the future direction of creative perfumery.
Over the years, you’ve experienced countless fragrances and met hundreds of perfumers, founders, and creators from around the world. Has your own relationship with perfume changed?
The biggest change has probably been in my everyday life. I used to own just a few bottles of perfume and would wear them only occasionally. Today, I have many fragrances, and I choose them depending on my mood or where I’m going that day.
The longer I’ve worked in this industry, the more willing I’ve become to explore fragrances from different creative styles and cultural backgrounds. I think the biggest change in me has been learning to stay open-minded and curious.
Without giving away any surprises, what can visitors look forward to at the next edition that reflects where Notes Shanghai is heading?
The theme of the next edition of Notes Shanghai is Another Way. With this theme, we want to bring the conversation back to what lies at the heart of perfumery. Many of the works that have truly shaped the industry’s evolution came from people who were willing to challenge established conventions and explore new creative paths.
This year, we want to refocus the discussion on creativity itself. There are many important topics facing the industry today, such as growth, distribution, social media and AI, but at its core, perfumery remains an art of perception, creation, and expression. Through the brands, forums, special exhibitions, and curated content across the fair, we hope to explore how scent continues to shape the way we understand the world, while opening up new possibilities for creative expression.
At the same time, Another Way is not only about creativity, but also about perception. In an age increasingly shaped by screens, algorithms, and ready-made answers, scent still offers a way of experiencing and understanding the world that cannot be replicated.
“Scent still offers a way of experiencing
and understanding the world that cannot be replicated”
Our giveaway winner will be joining the Le Parfum Magazine team at Notes Shanghai as a content creator. Beyond the exhibition booths, what would you encourage them to experience, and what advice would you give them to make the most of their visit?
Beyond visiting the brand booths, I’d strongly recommend exploring the featured exhibitions, taking part in the forum programme, and spending time talking with brand founders, perfumers, buyers, members of the media, and fellow creators. Those conversations will give you a much broader understanding of how China’s fragrance industry is evolving.
If you have extra time, I’d also encourage you to visit some of Shanghai’s fragrance boutiques. Some of the most interesting brands may not be exhibiting at this edition of the fair, and different types of retail spaces offer a valuable window into how Chinese brands connect with consumers and how today’s fragrance market in China is developing.
Win a Trip to Notes Shanghai
Alex Wu describes Notes Shanghai as more than a fragrance fair. It is a place where ideas, cultures and creativity come together. This October, one fragrance enthusiast will have the opportunity to experience that first-hand.
Together with Notes Shanghai, we’re inviting one fragrance lover to join the Le Parfum Magazine editorial team in Shanghai and experience one of Asia’s most exciting niche fragrance events from the inside. Over four unforgettable days, you’ll explore the fair, discover exciting fragrance houses, experience new launches, and capture the event through your own creative lens.
Whether you express your passion through photography, video, reviews, social media, or storytelling, we’re looking for someone with genuine curiosity, creativity, and a love for niche perfumery.
Passenger Profile
We’re looking for someone who:
- is passionate about fragrance
- is curious to discover new brands
- enjoys creating content through photography, video, reviews, or storytelling
- is excited to share the experience with others
Whether you’re an experienced content creator or simply someone with a genuine passion for perfume, we’d love to hear your story!
How to Apply
Applying is simple. Visit our dedicated Notes Shanghai Giveaway page and complete the application form.
The application period runs from 3 June 2026, 10:00 AM CET until 20 July 2026, 11:59 PM CET. Each person may submit one application.
Whether you’re an experienced content creator or simply someone with a genuine passion for fragrance, tell us why you’re ready to join us on this unforgettable journey to Notes Shanghai.
Application deadline: 20 July 2026, 11:59 PM CET.
Discover the Previous Edition of Notes Shanghai
Among thousands of fragrance lovers and industry professionals, Le Parfum Magazine travelled to the West Bund Art Center in Shanghai to uncover the scents, stories, and standout discoveries everyone will soon be talking about…
