EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW:
THE UNTOLD STORY OF MONTALE
Since their establishment, the perfume houses Montale and Mancera have made a remarkable impact on the fragrance world, earning their place among the top niche perfume houses. Renowned for blending Eastern and Western influences, they have mastered the art of creating bold, luxurious scents that transcend the ordinary. But behind the allure of these iconic fragrances lies a story rarely told – until now. In this exclusive interview with Le Parfum, perfumer Pierre Montale, joined by his daughter and artistic director Amélie Montale, reveals the secrets behind the magic of these groundbreaking brands.
How and when did your passion for fragrances begin?
Pierre: My passion for fragrances began at a very young age, largely influenced by my environment. My mother ran a beauty salon in the north of France, which introduced me to the world of beauty products and scents. This early fascination was further nurtured by my half-sister, who, at the time, owned Comptoir Sud Pacifique, a brand known for its exotic fragrances. During this period, I had the opportunity to introduce the scent of Monoï, which wasn’t yet widely known in Europe. However, it was a pivotal encounter with the Middle East during a single, life-changing journey that truly transformed my approach to fragrance creation. There, I was inspired by the rich olfactory traditions and the powerful fragrances built around intense ingredients like oud wood, incense, and musk. The spiritual significance of the fragrances also intrigued me. Oud wood, for instance, is often regarded as a bridge between the human and the divine. This inspired me to create fragrances that transcend mere olfactory pleasure, offering a truly sensory and emotional experience.
Amélie: I grew up surrounded by fragrances, so my love for this world developed naturally from a very young age. With a father like Pierre Montale, it was almost inevitable! Our home was always filled with incredible scents, but what fascinated me most was watching my father create – working with raw materials and then using technology to bring his ideas to life. It was a magical process for me. After initially pursuing photography, I gained valuable experience working with other brands in the perfume industry. I then realised that photography was more of a passion than a career, which led me to explore different creative avenues. It was during my time at Creapole School in Paris that I discovered my true calling: perfumery. Returning to the family brand not only allowed me to follow this passion but also brought me closer to my father, and the journey has been a true joy ever since.
Amélie and Pierre Montale
What makes oud so special to you?
Pierre: I was immediately captivated by its richness, complexity, and unparalleled depth. Oud wood offers an endless palette for olfactory creations, unveiling woody, smoky, and even animalic notes, depending on how it’s concentrated or blended. It also has the rare ability to evoke intense, almost spiritual emotions, creating a deep connection with the wearer. Initially, when I introduced oud in my creations, the reception was… well, let’s say, quite surprising! Some of my earliest clients found it too raw or overwhelming, and sometimes even reminiscent of undesirable scents. However, oud wood has since become a key ingredient in my creations, lying at the heart of Montale’s identity.
During your travels to the Middle East, you were granted access to exclusive, confidential materials through the royal family. It is rumoured that you crafted bespoke fragrances for them, as well as for celebrities and other prominent figures. What were some of the most remarkable fragrances you created and for whom?
Pierre: Indeed, the Middle East and its deeply rooted olfactory traditions gave me the opportunity to work with rare and precious materials, often reserved for an elite circle. Through privileged connections, I had the honour of creating bespoke fragrances for members of the royal family, celebrities, and other prominent figures. One of the most remarkable creations I crafted during this period is Aoud Queen Roses, a composition that blends oud wood with Damask rose. This fragrance perfectly represents the balance between the strength of oud and the delicacy of rose, paying homage to the Oriental culture where power and elegance coexist harmoniously. It was created for a royal family member seeking something truly unique and deeply personal.
Another memorable creation is Black Aoud, a fragrance built around oud, musk, and amber. This perfume is a bold and dark interpretation of oud, inspired by the mysteries and depth of the Middle Eastern deserts. It was crafted for a prominent figure in the world of business and culture, someone who desired a fragrance that was daring and evocative of the region’s ancient history and opulence. These two perfumes allowed me to push the boundaries of Western perfumery by introducing rare and precious ingredients. It also helped shape the vision that led to the founding of the Montale perfume house in 2003.
For many years, you remained somewhat of an enigma in the perfume world. What fuelled this choice to stay under the radar and what has changed for you in recent years as you became more widely known?
Pierre: It’s true that for many years, I chose to remain discreet in the world of perfumery…
READ THE FULL INTERVIEW NOW
You can discover the full article in Le Parfum Magazine Chapter 5 on page 54. Place your order now via the button below!
DID YOU KNOW THAT…
Montale is also featured in the Le Parfum Chapter 5 experience box with a 20 ml miniature perfume of Infinity. This fragrance has a mesmerising blend of plum, black cherry, white flowers, leather, black oud, and vanilla – creating a mysterious trail perfect for the winter season! TIP: buy the experience box together with the Le Parfum Magazine Chapter 5 for the ultimate fragrance experience.
